Not to miss

Gran Canaria

Whatever you're after, you'll probably find it here. Partygoers can absorb the urban buzz of the capital Las Palmas or the sun-and-sangria of the southern resorts, while nature lovers can enjoy the 'Himalayan' peaks of the centre or the obvious pleasures of the white-sand beaches.

The Catedral de Santa Ana is Las Palams' main place of worship and took 350 years to complete. Nearby, the Museo Diocesano, set on two levels around the Patio de los Naranjos, contains the standard collection of religious art and memorabilia, including old manuscripts and wooden sculptures.

The Casa-Museo de Colón is a gorgeous example of Canarian architecture, with fine wooden balconies overlooking two patios. Although it's called Columbus' house, it's uncertain whether he stayed there, and most of what you see is the residence of early governors. Inside is an odd assortment of navigational charts and pre-Colombian artefacts brought back from Latin America.

The Museo Canario is the city's main museum, dedicated to chronicling Gran Canaria's pre-conquest history. It boasts the world's largest collection of Cro-Magnon skulls and displays Guanche implements and a collection of pottery. The Centro Atlantico de Arte Moderno is the city's main museum of modern art.

Tenerife

The largest and highest island in the archipelago, Tenerife towers over its neighbours, with the 3718m (12198ft) Pico del Teide surging from its heart. Its barren east coast contrasts starkly with the lush northwest, and the rocky north seems worlds away from the playgrounds of the southwest.

If you can prise yourself from the beaches, you'll uncover an island of surprising geographic and sociographic diversity, where Spanish traditions dominate and the only other people you'll likely encounter are the locals.

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria

Las Palmas is the big smoke, the only place in the Canary Islands, apart from Santa Cruz de Tenerife, with an unmistakable big-city feel. While it oozes the kind of sunny languor you'd associate with the Mediterranean or North Africa, its snarled traffic, bustling shopping districts, chatty bars and thriving port all give off the energy of a city, Spain's seventh largest.

The historic centre, though small, is rich in interest and undergoing a rebirth as an entertainment precinct. Combined with Playa de las Canteras, it could keep the average hedonist busy for days. The flavour is Spanish, with a heavy international overlay. You'll find a lively mix of Chinese, African, Indian and Spanish residents, plus an eclectic mix of tourists, container-ship crews, and the flotsam and jetsam that tends to drift around port cities.

If you've come to the Canaries to experience something of Spain (away from the all-day English breakfast and time-share scene) and you like some city bustle, a museum or two, and a cultural life that doesn't revolve around karaoke, this place rewards your attention.

Casa-Museo de Colón

This is a beautiful example of Canarian architecture, built around two patios overlooked by fine wooden balconies on the upper level. The exterior of the building is itself something of a work of art, with showy plateresque (silversmith-like) elements mixing in original fashion such as brown-stained balconies typical of the island.

Although it's called Columbus' House (it's possible he stayed here once when he was presenting his credentials to the governor), most of what you see was the residence of Las Palmas' early governors. Inside, it's a ragbag collection ranging from old sea-charts to Pre-Columbian artefacts, with some model ships thrown in as well.

Parque Nacional de Garajonay

Covering 10% of La Gomera's surface, this 4000-hectare (9884-acre) park forms a knot in the island's centre and is a haven for some of the planet's most ancient forest. Over 400 species of flora, including its famous laurel, can be found here. Most trails running through the park were once used by the Gomeros. The majority of the hikes are relatively light, and you can get a solid view of the landscape without venturing too far.

Many independent visitors make for Alto de Garajonay (1487m/4879ft), the island's tallest peak. From here, clouds permitting, you can see the islands of Tenerife, La Palma, El Hierro and sometimes even Gran Canaria. Another favourite stop is La Laguna Grande, just off the highway and ideal for picnics. The 'laguna' refers to a barren circle of land - now used as a recreational area - that has always held an air of mystery. Islanders say it's a mystical place and that witches once practised here.

The Juego de Bolas Visitors Centre on La Palmita-Agulo Hwy is actually located well outside the park and is hard to get to unless you arrive from the north. Nevertheless, it's worth the journey - there are piles of information on the park, including a very informative guidebook, and the island in general.