Not to miss

Rila Mountains

The majestic Rila Mountains south of Sofia are a hiker's dream. The classic trip across the mountains to Rila Monastery can be done in a couple of days, depending on your mettle. The dedicated can start at the Borovets ski resort and climb Musala Peak, the highest mountain in the Balkan Peninsula.

Nestling in a narrow valley, Rila Monastery helped to keep Bulgarian culture alive during the dark age of Turkish rule from the 15th to the 19th centuries. The monastery was founded by Ivan Rilski in 927 and served as a retreat for hermits; it was moved 3km (2mi) to its present location in 1335.

In 1833, a fire destroyed the monastery, but it was soon rebuilt on a grand scale in the National Revival style. The magnificent church, with its three great domes, is lined with 1200 frescoes depicting donors and biblical figures. There's also a gilded iconostasis depicting 36 biblical scenes. The museums here house religious art and artefacts as well as folk costumes and household implements. A couple of kilometres into the forest is the cave where Ivan Rilski lived and where he is now buried. According to a local legend, those able to pass through the hole in the roof of the cave have not sinned, and since you'd have to be Mack-sized to touch the sides, the legend is very popular.

Sofia

Sofia's city centre is an eclectic mix of architectural styles, largely rebuilt after WWII bombings and complete with a yellow brick boulevard. The city is compact and diverse; a great place to get your bearings before heading off to discover the real Bulgaria.

Like other major capital cities, Sofia has its problems, including drug-related crime and some of the world's nastiest drivers; however, the EU's 'Beautiful Bulgaria Project' is sprucing up historic buildings and energising old neighbourhoods.

Rozhen Monastery

This hilltop monastery was originally built in 1217, but most of what remains was redone in the mid-18th century. It's an atmospheric place, with woodcarvings and a mural-filled church. It's an inspiring reward if you've hit the hiking trail that leads for several kilometres between Melnik and this site.

Shipka Pass

The scene of an important Russian-Turkish battle in 1877, Shipka Pass is accented by the bare-top 1326m (4350ft) Mt Stoletov and the six-storey Freedom Monument. There are displays on the battles inside, and up top, 360-degree views of the Stara Planina and Valley of the Roses below. It's a Shipka tradition to finish off with buffalo yoghurt at the stands below.

Madara National Historical & Archaeological Reserve

Know that cute horseman on the stotinki coins? The original bas-relief, carved in a viva-Bulgaria fever onto a 100m (328ft) cliff in the 8th century, is at the superb Madara archaeological reserve. There is also an intriguing rock chapel, an open-air cave wall, and a mountain-top fort with views of Shumen.