Not to miss

Denpasar

The capital of Bali has been the focus of much of the growth and wealth on the island over the last few decades, and though the traffic, noise and pollution make it a difficult city to relish, Denpasar still retains pleasant, tree-lined streets and gardens and is very much part of the 'real' Bali.

The Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali consists of an attractive series of separate buildings, including examples of both palace and temple architecture, featuring arts and crafts exhibits (the tiny cane cases for transporting fighting crickets are pretty special). The Taman Wedhi Budaya arts centre houses a collection of modern painting and woodcarving. Dancing groups and gamelan orchestras perform occassionally, mostly for the benefit of tourists.

Kuta Bay

The two beach sites of Kuta and Legian have been a major travel drawcard for more than 25 years, offering cheap accommodation, Western food, great shopping, surf, sunsets and riotous nightlife. However, the events of October 2002 shattered the idyll.

Nearly 200 people were killed after the bombing of the Sari and Paddy's nightclubs. This terrorist act put a severe dent in tourist numbers and the businesses that relied on them. Things are recovering, tourist numbers are picking up, but some wonder whether Kuta will ever be the same again.

Kuta is not pretty but it's not dull either. It's still the best beach on Bali, with the only surf which breaks over sand instead of coral. Behind the beaches, labyrinthine roads and alleys lead back to the most amazing clutch of hotels, restaurants, bars, food stalls and shops. Yet despite all the bustle and excesses and away from the traffic-clogged streets, Kuta is still a village: a place of quiet compounds and narrow alleys, where devotional offerings are placed in front of houses and neighbours emerge in the coolness of the evening to gossip in the street.

Gunung Kawi

In the bottom of this lush green valley is one of Bali's oldest and largest ancient monuments. Gunung Kawi consists of 10 rock-cut candi (shrines): memorials cut out of the rock face in imitation of actual statues. They stand in 7m/23ft-high sheltered niches cut into the sheer cliff face.

A solitary candi (memorial) stands about a kilometre further down the valley to the south; this is reached by a trek through the rice paddies on the western side of the river.

Each candi is believed to be a memorial to a member of the 11th-century Balinese royalty, but little is known for certain. Legends relate that the whole group of memorials was carved out of the rock face in one hard-working night by the mighty fingernails of Kebo Iwa.

One theory is that the whole complex is dedicated to Anak Wungsu, his wives, concubines and, in the case of the remote 10th candi, to a royal minister.

Museum Le Mayeur

The Belgian artist Adrien Jean Le Mayeur de Merpes (1880-1958) arrived in Bali in 1932. Three years later he met and married the beautiful Legong dancer Ni Polok when she was 15. They lived in this compound from 1935 when Sanur was still a quiet fishing village. The house is an interesting example of Balinese-style architecture.

Almost 90 Le Mayeur paintings are displayed inside the museum, with information in Indonesian and English. A free guidebook in English is available and is filled with useful information and beautiful colour photos.

Some of Le Mayer's early works are interesting, Impressionist-style paintings from his travels in Africa, India, Italy, France and the South Pacific. Paintings from his early period on Bali are romantic depictions of Balinese daily life and beautiful Balinese women - often Ni Polok.

The more recent works, from the 1950s, are in much better condition and show less signs of wear and tear, with the vibrant colours that later became popular with young Balinese artists. There are also beautiful black-and-white photos of Ni Polok.

Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary

This cool and dense swathe of jungle, officially called Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana, houses three holy temples. The sanctuary is inhabited by a band of grey-haired and greedy long-tailed Balinese macaques who are nothing like the innocent-looking doe-eyed monkeys on the brochures.

They are ever vigilant for passing tourists who just might have peanuts and ripe bananas available for a quick handout. They can put on ferocious displays of temperament if you fail to come through with the goods and have been known to bite if provoked. Don't hand food directly to these creatures.

The interesting Pura Dalem Agung (Temple of the Dead) is in the forest, for this is the inauspicious kelod side of town. Look for the Rangda figures devouring children at the entrance to the inner temple.

You can enter through one of the three gates: at the southern end of Monkey Forest Rd; further east, near the car park; or from the southern side, on the lane from Nyuhkuning.