Tour One: The Ring of Kerry
The fabled 110-mile Ring of Kerry explores the Southwest's most celebrated peninsula. Many operators have bus tours of the Ring, but driving your own transport is the best way to enjoy the breathtaking scenery, ancient forts, and religious monuments.
Begin by taking the R562 road out of Killarney towards Killorglin. After approximately five miles, turn left at the thatched house, following the road to its end. Here is the 16th century tower house Ballymallis Castle. Return to the main road and continue to Killorglin. In the Town Square a wild mountain goat is crowned king in August during Puck Fair. The oldest European festival, it combines revelry and copious alcohol consumption.
Heading towards Glenbeigh, you will soon pass the Kerry Bog Village. This stop combines pub life with a glimpse into Irish history. The picturesque town of Glenbeigh was once part of the Headley estate. The estate house ruin is known as Wynn's Folly and offers a panoramic view. It is worth a small side trip to Rossbeigh Beach, but save Rossbeigh Hill Walk for another time.
Entering Cahersiveen, Daniel O'Connell's Birth Place is on the left. The Daniel O'Connell Memorial Church is the only Irish church dedicated to a layperson. Across the bridge are Ballycarbery Castle, Cahergal Fort, and most impressive of all, Leacanabuaile Fort. If time allows, a visit to the old smuggler's den of Portmagee is worthwhile before going on to Valentia Island, connected to the mainland by a bridge.
On Valentia, the Old Slate Quarry at the top of the island has spectacular views of the Atlantic and the two famous monastic islands of Skellig Michael and Little Skellig. Former home of the Knight of Kerry, Glanleam Subtropical Gardens offer the possibility of an enjoyable interlude in the jungle.
Back on the N70, continue on to Waterville. This Victorian resort town was one of Charlie Chaplin's favorite holiday spots. His bronze statue on the promenade also offers a humorous reminder. Earlier visitors left Eightercua, a stark line of standing stones on a hillside. The next stop is Derrynane House, former home of Daniel O'Connell. In addition to the interesting museum, there is a pleasant walk along the strand. The Derrynane Walk includes abbey ruins, Bull Rock, and the beautiful estate gardens. Well sign posted and a little off the main road is Staigue Fort. This magnificent 1000 BC stone fort is the largest in Ireland.
Sneem is the next town on the ring. A winner of Ireland's Tidy Towns Competition many times over, its most interesting attraction is a sculpture park. The park tour is called The Way the Fairies Went with written guides available at the tourist office.
The road now leads to handsome Kenmare. As the Stone Circle shows, this area has been inhabited for centuries. In 1775 the town itself was planned by the first Marquess of Lansdowne. The Kenmare Heritage Centre has an interesting museum on the town and provides maps for walking tours. Other places to note are Our Lady's Well, Hutchin's Folly, Cromwell's Bridge, and Kenmare Lace Centre. The return to Killarney takes you through stunning mountain scenery with viewing points at Moll's Gap and Ladies' View. Muckross House, Muckross Abbey, and the Kerry Country Life Experience are all worthy stops before entering town again.
Tour Two: The Town of Killarney
Killarney is relatively compact and a two-hour walking tour offers a pleasant way to view most of the historic sites. One of the most notable Killarney landmarks is the Old Workhouse on Rock Road. This large complex of buildings was designed by George Wilkinson of Oxford and completed in 1845. The stone buildings have remained virtually unaltered since those times.
Continue in towards the center of town pausing at the Mercy Convent on the right. This beautiful Victorian building is one of many in the town designed by Augustus W. Pugin. Unfortunately, visitors can only view the convent from the front gate as both it and the gardens remain private. Turn right at the next corner, continue past the Garda station, and take the next left down St. Mary's Terrace. These original two-roomed buildings housed estate workers. Built in 1890, it was the first time mass concrete was used in Killarney; they are known locally as "The Concrete." At the end of St. Mary's Terrace, turn right. You will soon come to the impressive St. Mary's Cathedral. A.W. Pugin designed it also; many people consider it to be one of his finest works. The Old Monastery stands nearby and is the only monastery Pugin designed in Ireland.
Retrace your steps, walking along the Deenagh River. Otters and a variety of birds are frequently seen here. Take a right at the large gates. You are now entering the old Knockreer Estate. The quaint thatched Deenagh Cottage was once a gatehouse, but now serves snacks. There are many pleasant walks through the estate, but these are best left for another day. Return out the gate and take the first right. Follow this wooded road to the car park and go towards the large hotel. On your left you will see a car barrier. Go around the barrier to St. Mary's Well. This small well dates from the 13th century. Pass by the well and through another car barrier to Main Street. St. Mary's Church will face you. Moving past St. Mary's and towards the cinema, you will see the charming Killarney Methodist Church. It has a beautiful interior and is well worth a look. Exiting the Methodist Church, turn left up Countess Road. At the top of Countess Road and on the bridge is a Civil War memorial.
Continue straight to the junction and turn left. Walk under the railway bridge to the Franciscan Friary. This beautiful, unique church is a combination of Belgian and Irish styles. Across from the Friary is the Speir Bhean Monument to Kerry's four Gaelic poets.
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